After a last, wholesome breakfast in the mountains of Yamagata, we pack our luggage and leave towards Tochigi, a prefecture 100km up north from Tokyo. Julien’s Japanese side of the family is from there and as a child he spent his Summer Holidays in Tochigi. 

We drive down the mountain and take the train from Yamagata to Utsunomiya – a two hour trip. At Utsunomiya Station, we have planned on renting a car to drive deeper into the region. Julien’s mother will be waiting there so we can travel together. 

The trips go smoothly. No-one gets car sick and I came prepared, with lots of sweet potatoes and other snacks. The kids don’t sleep on the train, but they are calm, in a good mood and excited to meet the rest of the family. 

Renting a Car in Japan

At the station we meet with Katchan – Julien’s mother – and start looking for a car rental. There are many surrounding the station and we are not picky since they all have similar prices. The only thing I absolutely want is car seats for the children. 

Call me stupid, but at the car rental I also soon learn that I’m not allowed to drive, because I didn’t bring an international driving license. I got my licence very recently and I didn’t think about it. Or actually, I did, and I even asked my instructor, and he said I wouldn’t need an international license, because I would be able to drive in Japan for a maximum of three months. Recalling the conversation, he might have thought I asked him if I needed to do another driving test in Japan. And anyway: I can’t blame him, only myself. The car rental doesn’t allow me to drive. Luckily Katchan can drive, but I feel sorry for her, and also for me: I was really looking forward to it. 

It takes super long before the car is ready, because there are problems with the car seats. First of all they have to go pick them up at their shop on the other side of the station, and after that they have a problem installing the seats properly. The kids are tired and both complaining. It’s warm and we have already travelled over three hours. I. needs her nap now, and L. too is bored and tired. When we finally leave we are over an hour behind on schedule. 

The Past Glory of an Onsen Hotel

On our way to the onsen (hot water spring) hotel, L. and I. both sleep. It’s a lovely 45 – minute drive, past rice fields and small towns. We have music and I can’t wait to dive into the onsen. 

The hotel is along Kinugawa river, a lovely wooded part of mountainous Tochigi with many onsen hotels. Our hotel seems rather dodgy from outside, but once inside the place is well maintained. The money clearly goes inside. In France it would be the other way around; it is all about appearances there. The hotel is a bit outdated, as if its most glorious days are somewhere in the past, but the nostalgia of that vibe isn’t too bad either. It has a lovely garden and you can walk all the way down to the river, where the kids can play in the water. 

Julien’s brother and family arrived earlier and explored the area while waiting for us. Nothing special, they say. People don’t come for the outside experience. They mainly come for the hotel, it’s onsen and the restaurant. 

We check in, get our yukata’s – traditional wear, easy for the onsen and go find the big, family tatami room where we all sleep together. Five adults and four children. Eight futons in one room – I. sleeps with me. It looks very cosy. 
I can’t help but think of my mother when I see all those mattresses next to each other. She would have freaked out. Never been able to sleep this way, with no privacy at all. Well, she won’t experience this anymore anyway. 

No Vegan Dinner

After a long bath and some playtime down the river, we all get ready for our dinner at the restaurant of the hotel. There is no food for me, because I only eat vegan food and the hotel clearly stated that they wouldn’t be able to provide it.

I was surprised when megu, my sister in law, called us and told me to pack some vegan food. She tried her best, but they refused. Most restaurants are actually very flexible when it comes to dietary restrictions. This hotel however, didn’t want to try. Julien told me it’s because they are afraid they can’t maintain the quality. I think it’s because they are outdated. In any case: I brought some vegan rice balls. And honestly, I really don’t mind. I’m kind of used to it. And there is sake! 

The dinner is extensive and contains a variety of small dishes. We sit in a private room, which is perfect with the children, who play games and run around the table. Megu brought me some great onigiri, rice balls, too. I’m glad I have some extra, because obviously L. isn’t going to eat her food again, but she does take some bites of my onigiri. Besides, there is silken tofu, and vegetable dishes – of which I’m quite sure a fish broth is used – that I gladly accept. The hotel didn’t seem flexible, but once you are in, a lot is possible.

A Last Bath Before Bed

After dinner, we all go back to the room. It’s 21:00 and the girls look exhausted aka they are both acting kind of weird. In the end I. only slept for 30 minutes in the car. And L… well, she clearly needs some rest too. The whole family is going to take another bath. I don’t feel like going – I’m worried about my tired and crazy children -, but Julien takes L. too. Maybe for the best; I wouldn’t know how to get her to sleep in this state anyway. 

An hour later, I hear them coming back to the room. I. is sleeping, but I am not because I am thinking about L.. I hear her high pitched, excited voice in the hallway: it doesn’t sound like the hot onsen helped her to calm down. 

Even when the light are off, in the pitch dark of the night, I hear L.’s, now soft voice, talk and talk and talk. Around 23:15 she is finally quiet. Sleeping. I’m sure she will wake up at 6:00 in the morning. That is what happens when she is like this. 

Read more about Tochigi!