1. Introduction
2. When to visit?
3. Map
4. Where to stay?
5. Where to Get Your Coffee?
6. What to Eat and Drink?
7. What to Do?
8. Favourite Souvenirs!
9. Transport
10. Travel Toys
1. Introduction
Thank you for reading this personal guide to Paris! Before I take you on this journey, I’d like to briefly introduce myself and my family.
I’m Charlotte, Dutch, and Julien – my love – is French-Japanese. We met in Tokyo while I was studying there, but we didn’t fall in love until we crossed paths again in Paris almost ten years later. Since then, we’ve split our time between Rotterdam and Paris with our daughters, L. (born 2019), I. (born 2022), and our dog, Michi.
Julien runs a gallery in Paris that represents Japanese artists, and he lives there part-time. Our daughters go to school in Rotterdam, but we visit Paris as often as possible. We love Paris, but chose to make Rotterdam our base – for now…
Traveling back and forth with two young kids, I’m often asked what it’s like to be in Paris with (young) children. I’ve been asked so many times that I thought: why not write about it? There are plenty of guides to Paris but few focus on traveling there with small children.
Over the past few years, I’ve learned a lot about traveling as a family. It took some adjusting, but with the right attitude (Let it gooo…), I’ve come to enjoy this new way of experiencing cities. The nights — we used to love — became short, but the mornings grew longer. And they’re not too bad either.
Japan
Our family is partly Asian, we all love to eat rice. There are a lot of Asian restaurants and shops in this guide, which also happen to be very family-friendly. And since we’re surrounded by many (partly) Asian friends, we are always the first to know about a new shokupan (Japanese milk bread) bakery or noodle shop in Paris.
I gave all Asian places this kawaii colour
Favourites
All places mentioned in this guide are great, but a few are super favourites and I’ve coloured them this happy colour.
Analog Photography
For me taking analogue photos has been a way to minimise the use of my smartphone. It could have been a digital camera too, but I just love the outcome of analog photos. They make the whole world seem a bit softer and warmer. Also the process of getting the film developed and being excited about the results is contagious. Everything takes time with analogue photography. It feels like a way of protesting the culture of ‘instantly’.
Click to read more…
I use point and shoot cameras, because in the end I do have two young children with me 99% of the time: I have to be fast. Besides, the best moments happen in a blink of the eye.
For this guide, I used an Olympus SuperZoom 70g and Olympus Trip AF mini – because the first one broke. These camera’s are not the best camera when you are inside. I haven’t been able to take photos of food. At the same time, I like to be 100% present with my family when we have dinner so I hope you don’t mind!
Paris with Kids
First of all: I’m sorry. Our romanticised image of Paris often doesn’t match reality. Arriving at Gare du Nord will wake you up straight away. Homelessness, aggressive cigarette sales, and general chaos. Add a protest at République, dirt everywhere… and voilà.
Julien, being bicultural, always says: “Paris looks beautiful on the outside, but behind the scenes, it’s a mess.“
Like Last Tango in Paris — a gorgeous film with an incredible soundtrack, but a behind-the-scenes story that doesn’t hold up to scrutiny. Does that make it a bad film? Does that make Paris a bad city? That’s up to you.
Kids may make your world smaller, but they grow your imagination.
Walking the winding streets of Paris, pushing a stroller over bumpy cobblestones, waiting for our three-year-old to jump off every single thing in her path, I daydream myself into Jeanne Moreau on her way to the bakery. She surely had croissants for breakfast too! In the same neighbourhood. Seventy years ago. Her feet touched the same stones.
Just like Audrey Tautou’s, fifty years later.
Agnès Varda’s, until recently.
Just like mine do now. And my children’s tiny feet, too.
Sure, the streets are a little dirty. Sometimes I have to count to ten when their hands get too close to cigarette butts and unidentifiable grime.
But this is Paris.
And — with its beauty, cultivated city parks, cathedrals, flaky pastries, protests, and imperfections — it’s perfect as it is.
My two simple tips when you visit a city with young kids:
- Book an apartment instead of a hotel, preferably with a little balcony where you can talk and drink a bottle of wine when the kids are knock-out after a long day of sightseeing.
- Focus on finding a great lunch instead of dinner, because around dinner time – often starting late in Paris – they are usually grumpy and tired anyway after spending the whole day out.
2. When to Visit?
“Paris is always a good idea,” but some moments let you enjoy it even more.
Spring and autumn — even with the occasional rain — are my personal favourites. If you plan on visiting Paris in spring, be sure to visit a local market to buy some fresh veggies and fruits. Enjoy them in a park for lunch, or if your apartment allows it, spend an evening in, eating ripe tomatoes by candlelight with a bottle of wine.
Summer can be hot. Lots of Parisians leave the city, while it stays packed with other tourists. Still, in the quieter neighbourhoods, there’s a unique kind of summer calm, and you can soak in the city’s lovely summer vibes.
Winter isn’t my favourite season, but honestly, I’d rather spend it in Paris than anywhere else. The Christmas lights and festive shopping windows are beautiful. The downside of visiting when it’s cold is that winter sweaters take up a lot of space in your suitcase. And when you’re travelling with children, you’ll need to pack extra layers to keep them warm, dry, and happy.
Unless you’re planning to combine work and pleasure, I recommend avoiding fashion week. Paris gets more crowded and expensive during those dates.
Lastly, something to keep in mind if your travel dates are flexible: many shops are closed on Sundays. On Mondays, lots of galleries and niche shops are closed, while on Tuesday lots of museums are. My recommended days to visit Paris are Wednesday through Saturday.
3. Map
4. Where to stay?
With only 2 million people within the city limits Paris isn’t very big. In that sense you can’t really go wrong! However, these are my favourite neighbourhoods to book your hotel or apartment.
Le Marais (3rd arrondissement)
The district of fashion, of art and actually also of food: Le Marais. The Nakameguro of Paris: stylish, a little polished but full of personality. One of its biggest advantages? Many shops are open on Sundays, which is rare in Paris, where Sunday is still very much a day of rest.
Le Marais is an area that is clean and well-maintained. Not representative for the rest of Paris, but for a weekend away it feels like a little oasis, while still buzzing with the everyday rhythm of people living their lives around you.
Canal St. Martin (10th and 11th arrondisement)
One of my personal favourite areas stretches from Canal Saint Martin – starting from Jardin Villemin – down the canal to Parmentier. It’s an up and coming area, full of great shops, bakeries and avant garde restaurants. Like much of real Paris, you also find lots of cigarette butts, dog shit and – at night – young people hanging out with a bottle of wine.
Just the walk along the canal is already a day well spend. Or eat an ice cream after dinner and sit by the water, alongside students, friends and homeless people. I don’t mean to romanticise poverty, but part of Paris’s beauty is how everyone lives on top of and next to one another. It’s messy. And real.
Le Quartier Latin (5th, 6th arrondisement) and the 7th arondisement
In Le Quartier Latin, situated in the Rive Gauche, the schools are closing. There simply aren’t enough children left to keep them open. It’s one of the most criticised areas when it comes to housing policy: full of pied-à-terre (secondary residences) for the rich and famous, and Airbnbs for tourists. And yet— it’s beautiful. Every small street tells a story, and you’ll find niche shops you’d be hard-pressed to discover anywhere else but in Paris.
If you get the chance to stay in this area – plus the 7th arrondisement, they are similar and close – , take it. It’s well-connected with subway line 4 going up north and further down south. And, in my opinion, it’s a much better place to stay than the 1st, 2nd, 4th, or 8th arrondissements on the other side of the river.
Montmartre (18th arrondisement)
Downtown Montmartre can be a bit of a tourist nightmare, but the rest of the 18th arrondissement shows a lively mix of classic French brasseries and cafés, fine-dining restaurants, newly openend niche coffee spots and the Goutte d’Or — a Sub-Saharan African neighbourhood with shops run by the African community and a daily food market where you’ll find veggies such as white eggplant and okra. Gentrification is happening, but at a slow pace.
If you stay in this area, you’re just steps from the Sacré-Cœur (which opens at 6:30 btw!) and Montmartre (Café Des Deux Moulins, the cafe in which Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulain (2001) was filmed, opens at 7:00). Head out first thing and you’ll beat the crowds. It’s the best way to experience these iconic places quietly, before the city wakes up.
The 18th is also very well connected, with metro line 4 taking you straight through the centre and down south. And it’s only a heartbeat away from Les Puces de Clignancourt — one of the greatest vintage markets in the world, if you ask me.
5. Where to Get Your Coffee?
Starting an undoubtedly chaotic and intense day in Paris has to be with a good coffee. I’ve tried plenty of them! Here is a small selection of coffee shops I always return to.
This section is not about the charm of the café, more about quality of the coffee. The charming (grand) cafe’s of Paris, usually don’t serve you a nice oat latte.
Most of the coffee shops I mention have a space for kids to play, or the shops are located close by a park and/or playground. Perfect if you want to go through your itinerary of the day peacefully.
1st, Café Kitsuné
One of the most fashionable coffee options: Café Kitsuné. You might find people taking photos of their take-away cup for the socials. Somehow Café Kitsuné does this to people.
This place is perfectly situated with kids, as the terrace of Café Kitsuné is one big garden: Jardin du Palais Royale. There is even a small sand pit for little ones. And of course the coffee is great!
Opens at 9:30 every day.
3rd, White Coffee
I love coming here in the early morning. The shop is next to a school, so if you are early you can watch the local kids being dropped off by their parents. There is no park close-by, nor a spacious terrace, but the coffee is amazing and this (calm) street brings such a Paris vibe.
Opens at 8:00 on weekdays and at 9:00 on weekends
3rd, I/O Cafe
Great coffee located next to one of the best art book shops, Ofr bookshop – an indie bookshop with a focus on art, photography and design books – and super close to Square du Temple, a beautiful city park with a playground for kids of all ages. I never leave Paris without visiting both this park and café.
Opens at 8:30 on weekdays and at 10:00 in weekends.
4th, Le peleton
This is a perfect morning stop if you decide to walk from rive droite to the rive gauche like we did or before you start exploring Le Marais. Great coffee, but no place for kids to run and play.
The visitors are a good mix of local French and foreign coffee lovers and cyclists. The cafe also has a cycling club and organises bicycle tours.
Opens at 8:00 every day!
5th, Le Bon Moment
This cafe literally came to us at le bon moment – the right moment. We walked from our apartment – Le Marais – towards Jardin du Luxembourg and halfway one of the kids was having a hard time. We really needed a break and a moment to reset. All of the sudden this cafe popped up. Not only do they serve good coffee and food (pancakes, but also onigiri – rice balls), there is also a space for kids to play with books and games.
It’s situated in a very touristic area where you don’t have that much choice. It’s really smart to remember this one!
Opens at 8:30 on weekdays, Wednesday and weekends at 10:00.
5th, Shakespear and Company Café
I know: this café might seem like a bit of a tourist trap, but I can’t help loving it. The view on Notre Dame is amazing, the coffee is good, and you can easily beat the crowds if you come in the morning.
The English bookstore next door is beautiful, full of history and traces of our favourite writers past and present. If you want to buy a book and skip the line — if there is one — just mention that you’re only there to buy a book and they’ll let you through!
Opens at 9:30
6th, WANI
Wani is officially a teahouse, not a coffee shop, but since matcha and lattes go hand in hand I’m adding it here. It’s new and serves amazing matcha as well as lattes!
It’s just around the corner from the Japanese sandwich shop Benchy—so eat your heart out. <3
Opens at 9:00
7th, CERTIFIED CAFE
Certified Café serves amazing coffee. This shop — there are two, the other one is on the Rive Droite — is located near Le Bon Marché, inside a passage called Beaupassage. The area is safe, with little traffic, so you can enjoy your coffee while letting your children play freely on the terrace.
If you need more space you can take out your coffee and go to Square des Missions-Étrangères or Square Boucicaut where you can sit calmly while your kid(s) play.
Opens at 8:00 on weekdays and at 9:00 on weekends!
NOIR
These shops serve amazing coffee in stylish, minimalist, and small spaces. There are a few NOIR coffee shops in Paris, but I like these two because they’re close to parks.
7th Noir Rive Gauche
This one is perfectly located—ideal for a first coffee in the morning before spending the whole day walking around the Rive Gauche. The shop is on a calm street and close to two small, lovely parks, Square des Missions-Étrangères and Square Boucicaut, where you can sit while your kid(s) play.
18th Noir Sacre-Coeur
If you decide to visit the Sacré-Cœur in the early morning (it opens at 6:30!), you can treat yourself to a great coffee here afterwards.
Opens at 8:00 on weekdays and at 9:00 on weekends!
10th, Radiodays
I’ve been going to this place for years, sometimes from far away, because there wasn’t much good coffee in Paris for a long time. The owner is very kind, and the vibe is great.
Usually, I drink my coffee on-site because I love the atmosphere. Or I buy some croissants next door at SAIN Boulangerie and head to the Jardin Villemin — a beautiful park with a playground where my kids have spent hours playing and exploring. The walk to the park is lovely, as it follows the Canal Saint-Martin.
Opens a bit late! 9:30 on weekdays, 10:00 on weekends.
10th, Cafe Margo
Charming, small café with great coffee and lovely vibes. The babyccino—a warm milk for kids—is free, which I always find very kind (though unnecessary!)This cafe is a 5-minute walk from Jardin Villemin.
Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Opens at 8:30 on weekdays and at 9:00 in weekends.
11th, dreamin’ man
Charming small café with a wonderful soundtrack, great pastries, and—most importantly—some of the best coffee in Paris. It’s run by a Japanese couple, which means great quality! (It doesn’t serve Japanese sweets, though there are other options.) It’s a bit of a hype right now.
Opens 8:30, closed on Sundays.
6. What to Eat and Drink?
Bakeries
Salon de Thé
Sandwiches
Crêperies
Ice Cream
Le (Grand) Café
Bouillon
Brasserie
Bistro
Restaurants
Take-Away & Simple Food
Marché, Supermarkets and Delicatesse
Your favourite chapter has arrived: food! I can’t help but admit I’m not a gourmand myself. Of course I like to eat, but I know there are people who enjoy it much more, like all the foodies I’m surrounded by. These are not only my favourite spots, but also theirs: our go – to gourmand places.
I also hardly take photos of food. It rarely looks good on my analog camera, it feels cringe and I always forget do take a photo anyway.
Gourmand
Traditionally, gourmand refers to someone who takes great pleasure in eating — and even overeats. However, I’ve noticed that Julien and his friends use gourmand to describe certain restaurants, usually bistros, meaning they’re very satisfying and delicious.
Bakeries
There’s a gap between traditional bakeries and the new generation of bakeries that care deeply about the quality of their flour, avoid refined sugars, and keep bread production local. Here’s a healthy mix of bakeries with a soul.
3rd, Tout Atour Du pain
A famous bakery (since 1859!) in the Marais with great croissants, pastries, bread, and sandwiches. It’s very close to Square du Temple, so perfect for grabbing breakfast before heading to the park.
3rd, Brigat
High-end, delicious bakery next to Place des Vosges, a lovely city park. Perfect croissants that you can take straight there. Next door, the bakery also runs a small ice cream shop.
6th, Bread and Roses
Situated very close to the Jardin Luxembourg, you’ll find an amazing organic bakery with a café. I’d recommend buying some croissants and heading to the park, but in case of bad weather or other plans this bakery also offers lovely seating.
There’s a menu with various healthy options for breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea.
10th, Du Pain et des Idées
Another renowned, century-old bakery on the other side of the Canal Saint-Martin, in a very lovely area surrounded by great shops and restaurants. Perfectly located to grab a croissant for the Jardin Villemin.
10th, Sain Boulangerie
This is my personal favourite. I love this new bakery, fighting against the industrialisation of bread by using high-quality flour and natural ingredients. The result is incredible and different pastries and croissants with a scent of honey. I’m so lucky this bakery is just around the corner from our apartment in Paris. I usually get croissants here and eat them in the Jardin Villemin.
Next door is the very charming coffee shop, Radiodays.
10th, Secousse
Not a classic bakery, but instead sourdough bread and scones. Besides bread, this shop offers a range of other fermented products such as kombucha, natural wine, and a delicious miso. A beautiful place.
11th, Boulangerie Utopie
This bakery won a prize for the best baguette in 2024 — hence the small queue on a dark winter morning! The baguette is great, but I especially love their creative pastries. Be sure to try the roulé sésame (black sesame roll!).
Salon de Thé
Every kid wants to eat macarons, right? These are some of the best places!
1st, Cafe Verlet
Café Verlet is the perfect place for a coffee and a madeleine. At lunchtime, the upstairs seating is often available, and I highly recommend sitting there. (It’s a bit tricky with a stroller because of the stairs, but there’s also seating on the ground floor.)
3rd, Carette
Carette is a century-old salon de thé, famous for its pastries and hot chocolate. There are three locations in Paris, but the one on Place des Vosges is gorgeous and the most convenient. Place des Vosges is a beautiful park to visit after your breakfast or afternoon tea. I highly recommend going early—it opens at 7:30, and there won’t be any queues at that time.
Sandwiches
3rd, Chez Elo
This Italian sandwich shop is a local favourite. The sandwiches are delicious and the portions are huge. Of course, I’d recommend eating them in the park next to it, Square du Temple. It’s a beautiful park and the shop is tiny!
3rd, Chez Alain Miam Miam
This sandwich shop has been around for a while, but since it became a hype on social media there’s always a queue. The sandwiches are great though, and once the hype is over, I hope it will be back to normal.
4th, Carré pain de mie
This could have been an out-of-the-box bakery — no croissants, but Japanese shokupan (milk bread). Very fashionable and perfectly made!
The shop also offers great sandwiches for lunch.
6th, BEnchy
Japanese Sandwich shop alert! Tamago (egg) Sando, Strawberry Sando and Matcha cake!
Crêperie
Crêperies are ideal with children, but you need to know the right ones to enjoy them too. A bottle of cider and a savoury crêpe can be very fulfilling. These are my favourites!
Breizh Cafe
My favourite crêperie now has a few locations. Order a bottle of cider, some oysters, a green salad with wasabi dressing, or one of the various amazing side dishes. And of course, a freshly prepared buckwheat crêpe. You’re going to feel so good!
3rd BReizh Cafe
In the middle of the Marais, perfect if you want to combine it with some shopping. There’s also a small park in front for kids who can’t stop running around until the crêpes arrive.
6th BREIZH Cafe (Rive Gauche)
Close to the Jardin du Luxembourg—great if you want to walk from the Rive Droite to the Rive Gauche.
18th Breizh Cafe Canal St. Martin
Right in front of one of my favourite parks in Paris, the Jardin Villemen.
10th, Crêperie Armorix
The most inclusive crêperie—maybe even restaurant—I’ve ever visited in Paris. Rainbow flag and bubble machine outside, delicious crêpes (with vegan options!), great cider, and a menu translated into 10 different languages. I felt so welcome here. And besides, the whole street is a gem.
14th, Brutus
Montparnasse is the “Breton crêperie” district of Paris. Historically, trains from Brittany arrived at Gare Montparnasse, which helped the area become a hub for Breton culture.
Brutus is one of the best crêperies, offering buckwheat (savoury) crêpes as well as sweet ones, along with a range of quality ciders.
Ice Cream
7th, La Bac à Glaces
Beautiful 50s-style ice cream shop located next to a lovely park. Lots of vegan options (including coconut ice cream that’s actually made with coconut milk, not cow’s milk!) and also good coffee. We love the atmosphere here.
10th, Sucre Glace
Perfectly located and a great ice cream shop, with a limited selection of exciting flavours. Lots of fresh and light sorbet options, plus vegan chocolate. Eat along the Canal Saint-Martin like always we do, and you’ll have the perfect Paris experience!
9th, Bakers CLub
A brand new ice cream shop with amazing home made ice cream and light and puffy brioche bread.
Grand Café, Bouillon, Brasserie, Bistro: what is the difference?
The brasserie, bistro and bouillon typically focus on the (cheap) dining experience, while the grand café is good for a coffee and a croissant or a glass of wine with a snack.
A bistro, compared to the brasserie, is small and was usually cheaper and more informal. However, nowadays bistros tend to offer more manicured and high-end meals, just like excellent natural wines. (And prices accordingly!)
Bouillon are just like the brasserie usually grand, but they offer affordable food and serve quickly and efficient. Traditionally the decor is reminiscent of the belle epoque.
A Grand Café is a cafe, but usually bigger than your regular local bar. The emphasis is on drinks, but there is also a local menu available. Therefore, it can be confusing if you are sitting in a brasserie or a Grand Café. Same as it can be confusing if you are sitting in a bistro or a regular cafe with a few really decent dishes.
I’ve tried to organise them a little, but it isn’t always easy. What all of these places have in common – especially the ones I mention – is that they offer a rather spectacular view on the people of Paris. Situated on buzzing corners, lovely streets or local hotspots.
They are also usually very family friendly – kids chairs and menus – and serve something for everyone. Do keep in mind: people in Paris do smoke a lot. So in summer season you might end up in between lots of smokers when you are seated outside. Not always ideal with kids. But then again: that’s Paris!
Le (Grand) Café
My rules for our aperitif: it has to be a place where you can watch people, feel the heartbeat of the city and where your kids are welcome. These are not places designed for kids. There might be smokers, noisy people and it can be a little messy. They are alive!
All the places I mention have decent food options. Sometimes it’s a little confusing: is this a restaurant or just a café? The main difference is that you’re allowed to just have a drink, and these places are open “all day” —or at least from 16:00.
3rd, Cafe de la poste
A classic and beautiful café, with a lovely terrace and a very French, basic menu. An ashtray on every table, bad cappuccino — tried it for you, not recommended — but perfect for a good breakfast or apéritif. I also like this place in winter; although it’s very small inside, it has cosy seats and good windows.
6th, Bar du Marche
I was doubting whether to add this in the guide or not, but it is one of those bars where I often ended up when living in Paris without kids. Then again: I also went there a few times with them!
It’s not for kids, but they are welcome. Lots of smokers and hardly space inside. Here, you sit outside and watch people around you, passing by. I love the old bar, neon red lights, the noise of the lively street and the mix of locals and tourists. It feels so much like Paris to me and it has easy and decent food available (fries!) and lots of lemonade too; the kids will be fine!
6th, La palette
Classic and renown: La Pallette, a century old restaurant that I’ve added to the café section because I specifically like to do l’aperitif there (although lunch could also work!). A cheese platter and a nice wine and you feel like you are part of the city.
I like it with kids too, because the menu is big and there are lots of nice bites to accompany your drink. Me kids love their omelette for lunch!
10th, La Sardine
La Sardine is located on one of my favourite streets in Paris. A lovely local bar with a spacious terrace — great for kids! Perfect for breakfast or a little drink at the end of a long day. And if you don’t feel like moving anymore, the food (hummus!) is also great, with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options.
10th, Chez Jeannette
A bar-slash-restaurant, but other than ordering fries and snacks with your drink, I wouldn’t recommend eating here. The atmosphere is great though with its beautiful bar, formica tables, red lights: a gem where lots of local Parisians hang out. I often came here for drinks when I lived in Paris. It’s open every day from 8:00 to 2:00.
11th, Martin
Julien’s recommendation and I second it! Great local vibes. This place has an excellent natural wine menu, and there are also delicious sharing plates available. Perfect for ending a long day of sightseeing with drinks and a light dinner.
18th, Cafe du commerce
Living in the 18th district I went here plenty of times. The cocktails are great. The fries very French: thin and greasy. The bar is beautiful and the atmosphere is great.
Bouillon
Cheap, loud and buzzing places!
I wish I had a nice photo but I don’t. Probably I’m always a bit overwhelmed by the speed of these places.
I remember being 14-years old, going to Paris for a long weekend with my parents. They took my sister and me to Bouillon Chartier, in the 9th, Grand Boulevards. It was late at night, we waited in a 30-minute queue before being seated. It was cold and rainy and we were super hungry but we loved it. The waiters running around carrying a dozen plates up their arms, the writing on the paper tablecloths, the sounds of the hundreds of people walking and laughing, the boiled eggs, plate of overcooked haricot vert, the winks and smiles.
With over 20,000 reviews on Google, these bouillons are clearly well known. Yet they are so iconic, beautiful, photogenic, and convenient with families and (tired) kids that it’s hard not to include them in a mini guide for families. Go early to skip the long queues. Be overwhelmed by the character of Bouillon Chartier, and enjoy food that, for obvious reasons, isn’t haute cuisine, but is definitely decent.
6th Montparnasse
10th, BouIllon Julien
This century-old art nouveau restaurant is perfect with kids. Go for an early dinner with the family and skip the long queues of adults later on.
The food isn’t amazing, but that’s rather typical for a bouillon. The décor is everything: the wall paintings, the stained-glass ceiling, and the century-old bar. Besides, no one cares if you just order a glass of wine, some fries, and a few small dishes—especially when it’s quiet. That can really come in handy with kids.
18th, Bouillon Pigalle
After a long visit to the upper parts of Paris — maybe the Puces de Clignancourt, Sacré-Cœur, or Montmartre — this is a perfect spot for an early dinner with your family. The food isn’t bad, and the atmosphere is superb.
Brasserie
Good food, spacious and lively
2nd, Brasserie Dubilot
Beautiful brasserie with a very photogenic interior. It has a classic menu and decent food options for everyone. I love the typical French dishes here as well.
3rd, Le progres (Marais)
One of my favourite places in Paris, with or without kids: Le Progrès. Somehow this spot always makes me feel like I want to belong to this city. I love the mix of fashion icons and old couples. A classic brasserie, but also a bar-tabac, so there’s lots of smoking around you. Great wine and Apérol—make sure to order some fries!
10th, la Marine
Beautiful, traditional brasserie with classic decent dishes, a kids menu and a very lovely, lively atmosphere. We live around the corner, so it has become such a regular that I forgot to add in the guide until last minute. It’s perfect after a long day of sightseeing.
14th, La coupole
Along the Boulevard de Montparnasse you’ll find one of the most beautiful brasseries ever made: La Coupole. Surely it’s a classic that most visitors to Paris already know, but I couldn’t resist. It’s perfect with a family, and it adds to the overall Paris experience.
I heard Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin had lunch here every Sunday, and one of the pillars inside the restaurant was painted by Chagall. Picasso, Simone de Beauvoir, and Patti Smith were regulars. And Albert Camus celebrated his Nobel Prize here. I mean… you can’t miss out on this one.
Bistro
Good food, good wine, intimate decor.
I think all of these bistro are my favourites. I highlighted one because it has such an amazing terrace.
When you’re with young kids, I highly recommend focusing on lunch. Many restaurants open quite late in the evening, and kids — at least ours — are usually tired after a long day in the city.
2nd, le grand Véfour
Is this even a bistro? I thought bistros were small, but I read everywhere how Le Grand Véfour exchanged its two Michelin stars and pricey menu to become more accessible: a bistro. It reopened after the pandemic with a more affordable menu while keeping its poetic touch.
Le Grand Véfour is most certainly a historic icon, centuries old, with an incredible interior. Located in the Palais Royal, it has a terrace looking out over the courtyard.
It seems like the kind of place you wouldn’t bring your kid(s) to, but don’t be fooled—they’re welcome! There’s even a kids’ menu available. This would be a beautiful addition to your trip to Paris.
Small side note: French kids are well behaved, but I know yours are too!
3rd, Le Hangar
Amazing, authentic bistro where mum and dad serve traditional French dishes, with some Italian and even the occasional Japanese twist.
This place could be in the dictionary for a gourmand restaurant, with food that tastes homemade, devoted, and welcoming. Highly recommended!
5th, Le Petit Bal Perdu
Le Petit Bal Perdu is a happy place in several aspects. For starters because of it’s colourful interior, the wall covered with attractive affiche art. It also has one of the best hidden terraces of Paris, offering a beautiful view. And at last it serves both delicious and affordable dishes.
7th, La Fontaine de Mars
If you are looking for authentic French food in the setting of a small bistro: this is a perfect spot. Great classic dishes in a colourful and inviting restaurant situated in a calm area, but still close to the center. The terrace is very lovely and next to a square, super easy with kids. And you can see the top of the Eiffel Tower while you eat!
9th, Le pantruche
Le Pantruche is an amazing bistro with flavourful, exciting dishes and a warm, local vibe. Go for lunch with the family!
10th, Le Verre Volé
I don’t know how many times I’ve heard Julien talk about Le Verre Volé, recommending it and sharing his own experiences. He loves this place dearly.
I’ve never been myself, and with kids I’d recommend going for lunch—and only if you’re a gourmand like Julien, since it’s a bit pricey. It’s not vegetarian-friendly (think black pudding), but according to my trusted sources it’s really amazing. And so is the natural wine selection.
11th, Aux Deux Amis
Open from lunch onwards, so also good for an early dinner. A tapas-like bistro, with a nice range of drinks and a simple French menu.
18th, La Traversée
When we lived in Paris, we lived across the street from this place and went there many times. We didn’t have our own kids yet, but we often brought our families (with kids). This spot offers lovely, fresh, and affordable sharing dishes in a friendly, local atmosphere. It opens at 18:00, so it’s great for early dinners!
Restaurants
So many incredible restaurants in Paris! Here is a small selection of some of our favourites. Although you might want to focus on French cuisine, keep in mind that ao the Indian, Algerian and Asian communities of Paris are just as much the soul of the city <3.
When you’re with young kids, I highly recommend focusing on lunch. Many restaurants open quite late in the evening, and kids — at least ours — are usually tired after a long day in the city.
“Little Tokyo”
The 1st and 2nd arrondissement – around Rue Sainte-Anne – is playfully called “Little Tokyo”, because it’s full with Japanese restaurants, bakeries and cultural shops.
1st, LaÏ-LaÏ Ken
A Japanese “family” restaurant with influences from Chinese cuisine. Friendly staff, friendly prices, and delicious food! We love going here, especially with a group. High chairs are available, and the service is efficient and quick.
1st, Kodawari Ramen
Another favourite: these ramen shops serve different broths, made from fish or meat, and they also offer a vegetarian ramen. 100% gourmand and super funky.
They make their own noodles on-site, using wheat from their own fields east of Paris. All ingredients are sourced locally and without the use of MSG or other additives. If you’re into ramen, this is a big recommendation!
1st (tsukichi)
2nd (Yokochō)
1st, Kunitoraya
The best udon restaurant in Paris! Warm, healthy, and richly flavoured soup, with lots of tasty Japanese side dishes. Perfect for lunch or a simple dinner.
1st, Zen
Another highly recommended Japanese restaurants with a variety of traditional options such as sushi, tempura and gyoza. The homemade mochi is delicious! It’s featured and recommended on the website of Michelin Guide.
Highly recommended by our Japanese community: Ruykishin Ramen is amazing. And I can second it, because they offer a selection of amazing vegan ramen too! The desserts are super tasty as well, it almost makes me sad to just write about this and not eat it at the same time.
2nd, Chez Miki
Lovely and cute Japanese bistro, with wonderful gourmand, homemade food options. The chef made me a natto (fermented soy beans) pasta because there weren’t many vegetarian options and it was delicious. <3 Easy with kids, because it opens at 18:00 and they serve pasta and rice. And at last a great selection of sake and wine.
3rd, L’étoile Berbère
Nothing beats an Algerian couscous, and this place is one of our favourite spots in Paris. An authentic, welcoming restaurant that has been here for decades, serving everyone from students to gastronomes. Don’t miss the sardines!
3rd, Maslow TEmple
(Vegetarian) A vegetarian bistro where I’ve taken all of my meat-loving gourmand friends and their kids — and they all loved it! The menu is designed for sharing, and everything tastes delicious. A spacious restaurant, with a large terrace and high chairs available.
“China Town”
The 13th arrondissement, Belleville, is renown for it’s large Chinese community, supermarkets and restaurants. However, also in the 3rd arrondissement, le Marais, you have a China Town, supposedly the oldest of Paris.
3rd, Le Lac de l’Ouest
I’ve spent many big family dinners in this restaurant, with lots of busy kids. It’s perfect for families and groups, although it isn’t that big. Delicious Asian dishes at good prices!
This whole street is full of nice Asian restaurants, and Maison de Chengdu also deserves a mention.
3rd, Okomusu
Okonomiyaki are Japanese pancakes made with cabbage, flour, and yamaimo (sticky yam). We love making them at home! In Paris, you can try them at Okomusu, along with a handful of other Japanese dishes. Delicious—and the kids love it too. And if yours don’t, they can always have an onigiri (rice ball).
3rd, Song Heng
Julien’s favourite Vietnamese restaurant serves only two dishes: pho and bo bun. Nothing vegetarian, so I never go there, but apparently it’s amazing
3rd, Hai Lua
In contrast to Song Heng, this restaurant offers almost any dish you can think of from Vietnam (vegan and vegetarian options included). Proper food at good prices, right in the middle of Paris. Don’t go for the interior; do go if you’re craving great Vietnamese food.
10th, El Guacamole Republique
Cheap, delicious, honest Mexican food. Open for lunch and reopening for dinner at 18:00, so it’s also great with young (and even picky) kids. They serve excellent margaritas and have plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too!
10th, Mulino Mulé
Perfect, authentic, and hearty Italian food in one of my favourite streets in Paris. Open for lunch and reopening at 19:00 for dinner. Well-priced for its high-quality plates. Perfect for a date night too.
10th, Gros Bao
A dim sum–style restaurant with great bao buns and lots of delicious (vegetarian) Chinese dishes. That, plus the cocktails and amazing atmosphere, makes us love going for dinner at Gros Bao. This noisy and lively restaurant is perfect for a family meal or an evening out with friends. On Saturdays and Sundays it’s open all day, so you can have an early dinner too. On other days it opens for lunch and reopens at 19:00—which isn’t too late either.
10th, Ghido Ramen
One of the best ramen shops in Paris. Everything is made in-house, including the noodles. Perfect for a quick lunch, but also open in the evening. There are vegetarian options on the menu.
10th, Old Shalimar at Passage Brady
Paris offers plenty of Indian food, and coming from the Netherlands I’m always excited to have some. I love this little Indian passage, full of kitsch restaurants all serving great food. I’m recommending one because I’ve somehow ended up there a few times, but they’re undoubtedly all good. Very easy to eat here as a family: it opens at 18:00, has kids’ chairs available, kind service, and food that’s messy but delicious.
An apéritif at Chez Jeannette followed by Indian dinner in Passage Brady makes for a perfect evening in Paris!
11th, Haikara Izakaya
In Japan, we love going to izakaya, because these kinds of restaurants serve a tapas-like dinner, lots of small dishes. That means there’s always something for even the pickiest eater. The vibe is usually easy-going, and there’s often space for families (and friends). This izakaya in Paris has great food!
11th, AlegrÍas
Lovely Mexican restaurant blending in food culture from France. Opens at 18:00 so good pick for early dinner!
11th, L’osteria dell’Anima
This is one of my favourite Italian restaurants in Paris: authentic, charming, and delicious. It’s a tiny space, so I recommend booking in advance.
It opens for lunch and then again at 19:30 for dinner—too late for my kids, but maybe not for yours. It’s also perfect for a date night!
13th, Chez Gladine Butte Aux Cailles
This basque restaurant is cheap, fast, and delicious, perfectly matching the local atmosphere. It is located in the Butte aux Cailloux area, a neighbourhood known for its abundance of street art. The Kids menu costs only €11.
It is located next to a park and there is a public swimming pool very close by.
18th, L’ete en pente douce
This restaurant offers hearty traditional French food, but also has great options for vegetarians and even vegans. On top of that, it’s located on a perfect car-free square, where your kids can move around freely while you take your time. It’s also a nice spot for a coffee or a glass of wine!
Take-away & Easy Food Options
There are lots of moments where we chose an easy lunch and bring it to the park, or we take-out some food to have an early dinner back home.
These are some of our favourite easy and delicious options!
1st, Aki Boulangerie
Mochi, melon bread, and matcha cookies: just a few of the delicious Japanese treats Aki’s bakery serves. More than a simple bakery, it also offers a full food menu with soba, curry, and other typical Japanese takeaway dishes. There are a few seats available, but otherwise your apartment or the Jardin du Palais Royal are great options!
3rd, Burger theory
(vegan) The best burgers ever! Milkshakes, fries and ‘ribs’ are also delicious. And not expensive!
3rd, Omusubi Gonbei
Being partly Japanese, our kids love rice and eat it almost every day. They get tired of bread easily, but they can always eat an onigiri (a rice ball). This is our favourite place to go: it’s cheap and tasty, there are lots of vegan options — even a vegan bento — and the staff are super kind. We often bring our onigiri to Square du Temple.
3rd, Pontochoux Curry
Japanese curry is amazing, and this small place in Le Marais serves a delicious one! There are vegetarian options, and it’s super family-friendly. It can get very busy, but if you go for an early lunch, opt for takeaway, or have an early dinner (they close at 18:30), you should be fine!
6th, O-komé
Another onigiri (rice ball) shop, this time in the Rive Gauche, where we have bought many rice balls to silence hangry cries of our kids. More delicate and smaller than Omusubi, but delicious and rewarding. Bento boxes available too!
6th, Chez Le Libanais
This Lebanese take-away shop is such a great happiness space. Loud music, hardworking chefs, preparing your felafel wrap as if it’s a record on a turntable. Made with love and laughs, and you can taste it.
11th, AVE pizza
If you are into Roma pizza, this is your place! Thin, crispy pizza, with fresh toppings. There is a small park with a playground in front of the shop. (And Jardin Villemin is 10-minutes away) I’ve added this outside of the restaurant chapter because sitting inside is nothing special – not like the other Italians I recommend! – but it’s very tasty…
Marché Supermarkets and Delicatesse
Whether it’s in Japan or in France, I love going to supermarkets to buy local products. In France, we often buy fresh bread at the bakery, cheese at the fromagerie, and fruit and vegetables at a (bio) market.
Here are some of our favourite shops and markets!
Organic Supermarket
There are a bunch of organic supermarkets chains in Paris such as Bio C’Bon – also active in Tokyo – Naturalia and Biocoop (I like this one specifically!). The organic market grew a lot in the last ten years and it has changed. Apart from these major three chains, you also have small independent shops such as the supermarket in this photo, close to Jardin du Luxembourg.
3rd, Marché des Enfants Rouges
One of the best places in Paris: the covered market Marché des Enfants Rouges. My favourite spots inside are Chez Taeko, the Japanese stall with great bento options that the kids love too, and Le Traiteur Marocain. However, you can’t really go wrong here! You can also take-out your lunch to Square du Temple.
3rd, Caractère de Cochon
Not really the place for a vegan, but here you can buy great ham (and sandwiches) and other delicacies. It’s a very popular spot and (unfortunately) it’s common to queue.
9th, Marché d’Anvers
A local farmers market with great veggies, fish, cheese and other local products. Open only on Fridays!
Not For Kids
In case a grand parent cames along, or a baby sitter or if there is a way for you to go out on a date night while in Paris: I’m sharing few of our favourite places.
3rd, Mesures
This bar is an absolute gem: jazz and cocktails with a nod— of course — to Japan. Perfect for a date night.
The bar opens early, so if you’re in the mood for something special around 17:00, you could even try it with family!
3rd, Candalaria
Delicious tacos, but that’s not all. Behind the white door of this simple restaurant, you’ll find a speakeasy bar serving excellent cocktails. I’m not a “foodie”, I admit, but I do love the experiences that restaurants and bars have to offer!
3rd, Ogata
For the best Japanese food, I highly recommend Ogata, a tea house and fine dining restaurant offering not only incredible food, but also a complete experience. The stunning building has an atmosphere of its own, drawing you straight into another world.
I wouldn’t recommend Ogata with young children, but if your kids are a bit older and enjoy food, you can definitely take them. With younger ones, it’s still worth a visit just to soak up the vibe. There’s also a shop where you can buy Japanese tea and sweets.
10th, La Cave à Michel
Wonderful wine bar in one of my favourite streets of Paris. It also serves a few (delicious) small dishes.
11th, Clamato
Beautiful fish bistro, with an amazing selection of (natural) wine. Perfect for a light lunch of shared plates or a romantic dinner.
The menu is quite experimental – no fries – , so I can’t recommend it with my own kids, but I suppose if yours are more adventurous when it comes to food they’s be welcome too!
7. What to Do?
Parks
Carrousels
Amusement Park
Churches and Cathedrals
Museums
Water
Paris offers so many things to do that it can be difficult to make the right choices for a long weekend—especially when you’re traveling with children!
As mentioned earlier, we don’t visit the big tourist hotspots. We’ve seen most of them, and we prefer to explore the places Parisians themselves enjoy. Besides, we like to choose activities that inspire us too.
I’ll leave it up to you to add in the Eiffel Tower or one of the major museums. It really depends on your kids, their ages, and whether you (and they) are willing to queue.
Here are some of our favourite things to do in Paris.
Parks
Paris is full of lovely parks that we often visit. They’re well maintained and usually include small botanical gardens with beautiful flowers. You can also almost always find at least some playground equipment. We like to start the day in a park with croissants and coffee.
Here are some of my favorites. (In the carousel section, you’ll also find the Jardin des Tuileries.)
1st, Place Dauphine
This is the perfect place to take a deep breath after conquering some of the tourist traps of the 1st arrondissement. A hidden oasis of calm, with locals playing pétanque, small bistros, trees, and flowers.
3rd, Jardin Anne Frank
Nothing special this park, but if anyone is overwhelmed, this is the place where you can calm down. It’s very well situated and has some play equipment in the back. Besides, it’s usually very quiet.
3rd, Square du Temple
In the heart of the Marais, you’ll find a perfect little park for a break. It’s full of locals having breakfast, lunch, or a cup of coffee on one of the many benches. The park is richly decorated with flowers and cherry blossoms in spring.
On weekends and after school, it gets super busy. The best time is early in the morning, when you’ll be surrounded by nannies and kids. Very Paris!
Grab a coffee from I/O Cafe and a sandwich from Chez Elo. Or an onigiri! It’s also a great spot to eat your lunch from Marché des Enfants Rouge, if it’s too crowded to eat on-side.
10th, Place de la Republique
It’s a little messy this square, but it has such historical significance and you can feel it. It moves, shout, represents whats going on at the moment. There is a (dirty) play court and a skate park. There is the Monument à la République. I don’t recommend it as a true hangout, but I highly recommend you to walk over it slowly and soak the energy. And our kids love to try the skate park with their trotinettes!
5th, Jardin des Plantes
Le Jardin des Plantes is one of the largest and most beautiful botanical gardens in Paris. It’s an oasis of calm, rose gardens, and greenery. There’s also a botanical school and three old greenhouses where you can learn about plants—especially nice with older kids.
From mid-November until mid-January, le Jardin des Plantes hosts a lantern festival featuring magnificent light sculptures, always based on a special theme. Dinosaurs, micro-animals—every year it’s a surprise. The kids adore this time of year.
There’s also a small zoo, which I’m not a fan of. If your kids are interested in animals, I’d recommend visiting the ones in the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle rather than the living ones in outdated cages. Very few zoos offer acceptable spaces for animals to live, and this definitely isn’t one of them.
Around the park you’ll find some easygoing sandwich shops, but another wonderful activity is visiting the incredible Grande Mosquée. You can enjoy a sweet mint tea there.
5th, Square Boucicaut
This small park is very well located, perfect if you need a break, or if one of you wants to explore Le Bon Marché right next to it. It’s full of chic local parents and kids from the neighbourhood. I love it for people-watching—especially kids’ styles, which is honestly quite impressive!
There’s also a carousel, not worth mentioning in the special section, but it can definitely come in handy.
7th, Jardin Du Luxembourg
This might be my favorite place in all of Paris, even though it can get super crowded. I just love this park and its surroundings.
We tried the boats for the very first time on our last trip to Paris, and it was such a lovely experience. In midsummer, it’s full of tourists and there’s little shade around the water, something to keep in mind!
A boat costs €8 for 30 minutes.
7th, Square de missons étrangères
A tiny, cute park that can come in very handy! Grab an ice cream at Le Bac à Glace and/or a coffee at Certified Café (in Beaupassage), and enjoy a moment of calm. Or pick up a sandwich from Benchy!
10th, Jardin Villemin
Jardin Villemin is a hidden gem in Paris. Beautiful gardens, great playgrounds (including one especially for small children) and a lovely, clean grass field for picnics and more.
If you want to escape the crowds of parks like the Jardin du Luxembourg, this is a wonderful and conveniently located alternative.
Carrousels
Paris has plenty of lovely carousels. It feels very French to let your kids ride one. However, many of the gorgeous old wooden carousels have been replaced by plastic versions, and those just don’t look as good.
Here are two that are absolutely stunning and located in areas you’ll likely want to visit anyway.
1st, carrousel Jardin des Tuileries
The Jardin des Tuileries is one of the largest central parks in Paris, stretching from the Louvre on one side to the Place de la Concorde on the other.
The park attracts a mix of tourists and locals—some stopping for lunch on their work break, others letting their kids run wild.
Alongside this beautiful old carousel, there’s also a trampoline area and a lovely playground. It can get very busy, especially at the playground, but the trampolines and carousel can be surprisingly calm.
€3 per ride / trampolines €3 per jump session
7th, manege 1913
Champ de Mars is one of the most impressive parks of Paris. It’s huge, very well maintained and perfect for a picnic with view on the Eiffel Tower. Inside this park, you can find the early version of the carousel, made in 1913 and still working perfectly. Super cute and perfect for young kids.
€2 per ride
18th, Carrousel de Saint Pierre
Underneath the Sacré-Cœur is a beautiful wooden carousel. It’s a lovely reward after climbing the stairs for a view over Paris. (If you want to visit the Sacré-Cœur as well, I recommend going at 8:00 in the morning—then treating yourself to a good coffee afterward!)
€4 per ride
Amusement Park
18th, Le Jardin d’acclimentation
The only amusement park in Paris, and around since 1860, Le Jardin d’Acclimatation features 42 attractions. It was completely renovated in 2018 but has kept all its original charm, with beautiful carousels, old roller coasters, and a lovely green park perfect for strolls.
Situated in the Bois de Boulogne, we often visit the Fondation Louis Vuitton before or after. I recommend entering the museum through the park — there are two entrances — as there’s usually no line.
Prices
€7 per person to enter (from age one), without using the attractions. Rides cost €4.50 each, or €55 for a pack of 15 rides.
You can also pay €48 per person for unlimited access to the attractions, but we usually just pay the basic entry fee and buy 15 rides — it’s always enough for us.
Churches and Cathedrals
We love visiting beautiful churches and cathedrals (as much as we love visiting shrines and temples in Japan!). The kids really enjoy it too, especially when they can hear the stories that are part of the religion. Who is that man hanging on a cross? Who are the weeping women? Who is the baby? And then, of course, the gorgeous stained glass everywhere.
We always light a small candle and think of someone who isn’t with us anymore. It’s a simple gesture, but it makes each visit more special and memorable.
These are cathedrals we like to visit, all situated in wonderful areas that are worth exploring anyway!
4th, Eglisé Saint Merry
A lovely Gothic church, full of ornaments and gargoyles with mythical creatures. If you can’t make it to Notre Dame (usually extremely crowded) this might be a smaller yet worthy alternative. It’s also right in front of the Fontaine Stravinsky, another great stop and a favourite of our kids.
6th, Eglisé Saint-Sulpice
A stunning, large church, richly filled with artworks, right in the middle of the Rive Gauche. Perfect to visit on your way to the Jardin du Luxembourg. We went during a service, and the organ played some powerful tunes. It was magnificent and my kid loved it.
Museums
Paris is filled with wonderful museums, but these are a few I like to visit with kids. They are either small or less fragile than average. I know you know where to find Louvre, so you won’t find it here!
3th, Musée de la Chasse et la Nature
Not really what you’d expect from a vegan, but I visited this museum for the first time to see a work by Nawa Kohei and was surprised by the beauty as well as the number of animals in the trophy rooms. The security assured me they were hunted at least 100 years ago, and that hunting is now strictly forbidden. The museum also has a foundation that supports the preservation of wildlife. This is reflected in the temporary curated exhibitions with artists who, like Nawa Kohei, examine the relationship between nature and men.
My kids love watching animals up close. It’s strange how dead animals too can deepen their connection to living ones. Whatever works…
3th, Fondation Henri Cartier Bresson
Herni Cartier Bresson, one of the founders of Magnum Photos, created this small fondation in 2003, together with his family. It preserves his own work and offers space to other photographers but also sculptors and artists. If there is nothing that interests you at the moment of your visit, I suggest to check MEP, another small and high quality photography museum around the corner.
3th, Maison Européene de la photographie (MEP)
Beautiful, small photo museum with a usually wonderful and progressive program. If there is nothing of your interest at the moment of your visit be sure to check Fondation Henri Cartier Bresson.
5th, Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle
This museum was a dream come true for my (dead) animal-obsessed kid. Huge skeletons of whales, an entire floor dedicated to ocean creatures, and a full building packed with almost any animal you can think of. Noah’s Ark in one huge space. The building itself is beautiful, and the Jardin des Plantes — the park outside the museum — is also great to visit before or after.
7th, Musée rodin
This is one of the major tourist hotspots of Paris, but it’s so lovely with children that I’d give it a chance. Enjoy the mesmerizing sculpture garden and see the most renowned and beautiful sculptures of Auguste Rodin up close.
Recently, the museum opened an Atelier Rodin for kids to attract local audiences, since the museum is mostly visited by tourists. In this atelier, children are encouraged to create, touch, and learn more about sculpture. There’s even a sensory room for kids as young as six months old!
8th, GRand Palais
The Grand Palais recently reopened after four years of renovations. It promises to be an inclusive and immersive experience and that’s exactly what it is! Part of the exhibitions are free (like the Ernesto Neto one in the photo above). There’s a lovely bookstore and an immersive, sensory-focused exhibition that kids will enjoy.
The curation changes, of course, depending on when you go, but the focus on immersive experiences, sensory journeys, and inclusivity remains.
8th, Atelier Des Lumières
Yes, it’s a bit cheesy with their Van Gogh or Hokusai programs – very accessible! But it’s also quite nice – especially if you haven’t had many of these interactive experiences. Surely your kid(s) will love this and they’ll recognise van Goghs Sunflowers or Hokusai’s waves forever after.
16th, Palais du Tokyo
One of my favourite contemporary museums in Paris – although of course it also always depends on the curation of the moment. This museum is large, tall and beautiful. It’s usually very kid friendly and it has an amazing art shop with magazines, design and artistic and educative toys.
I know not everyone is into walking as much as we are, but if the weather is good you can walk back towards the center along Le Seine, with great view on the Eiffel Tower!
Water
Paris isn’t exactly known for it’s water, but there are a few pools for if it is just too warm or if your kids are in need of some water.
13th, Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles
Wonderful Art-Deco pool, with big outdoor pool too. €3 for adults, €2,50 for kids. It can be super crowded, but if you go early or later it can be surprisingly doable!
12th, Paris en seine
For a unique Paris experience you can dive into the Seine mid-summer! A perfect way to cool down after being in the heat of the city all day. This well organised pool offers lockers, toilets and showers too, so you can go straight to the restaurant after!
8. Favourite Souvenirs!
Kids
Adults
Kids
A small selection of my favourite shops in Paris. I buy 90% of clothes for the kids second-hand, but there are a few shops that are hard to resist while visiting… Even if it’s just for inspiration.
My favourite French kids brands <3
I love French kids brands! There are hundreds – of which some super popular – but these are some of my personal favourites (Which you also might want to put in your Vinted search!) I didn’t add them in the map, because some have several locations and some have none.
- Bonton
- Bonpoint
- Poudre Organic
- Cacharel (vintage!)
- Hello Simone
- Emile et Ida
- Repetto For all ballet flats and clothing, both kids and adults!
Shoes
If you need anything for a baby, I can highly recommend you to check Le Petit Souk. It’s a baby and kids concept store with everything you need from muslin cloth, to games to kid the older kids occupied during a nice lunch. There are several shops spread over Paris.
3rd, BonTon
There are several Bonton shops in Paris, but this is the best one. Big and full of kids clothes but also (small) presents, furniture and other cute items. Get your kid (or yourself) a foulfleur scarf and feel like I real Parisian. Situated super close to Merci – renown and another must visit – and Moulin Roty a great toy shop.
3rd, Izipizi
Looking for kids sunglasses? This is where you have to be! Lovely colours, nice fitting and good protection.
6th, Petit pan
This shop has the most beautiful kids lights ever: beautiful, colourful lampions and mobiles. I never had the chance to install one in the kids room, because we are over-satisfied when it comes to lighting, but if you are in need of beautiful lights for your kids room this is your go-to.
6th, The Red Balloon
An English bookstore devoted to children’s literature. A wonderful place where you and your kids can spend hours exploring. The books reach up to the ceiling and the owner is very involved and passionate about her work, whether it’s for kids or for adults, the shop next door.
6th, Pom d’Api
My favourite shoes, from first steps to pre-teens. Colourful, cheerful and you can also find amazing vintage pairs online.
If the kids don’t have patience, there is a park very close to the store!
10th, centre commercial kids
Instead of a disappointingly small Smallable shop, go to this tasteful select shop with a great mix of (sustainable) brands. We love Dutch brands Gray Label and Yuki. And of course the overalls of Portugese brand Favourite People. There is also a great selection of (wooden) toys and cuddly toys.
Few minutes from the kids store, there is also Centre Commercial Outdoor, a shop for adults devoted to outdoor fashion and live-style.
10th, Poudre Organic
Beautiful brand for simple basics and soft cotton gauze dresses. I love their blouses with long sleeves to protect against hot summer weather and their bloomers are adorable too! Oh and corduroy dungarees… As you can read worth a visit!
Adults
In Paris you have so many niche shops compared to good old Rotterdam. Shops with beautiful art books, records – I collect soundtracks on vinyl – ceramics and of course it’s the Valhalla of fashion.
French Fashion Brands
I won’t include too much fashion, there are people far better at it than me. Some very Parisian, accessible, and widely represented brands include:
Shoes:
3rd, Ofr bookshop
An indie bookshop with a focus on art, photography and design books.
3rd, Merci
Super well-known, but such a gem that I can’t not include this concept store in the guide. Perfect for Christmas presents, with an amazing selection for both men and women and gadgets you never knew you needed. We all love browsing through this place.
4th, Dover Street Market Paris
A beautiful select shop by the Comme du Garçons family. As mentioned I don’t want to advice too much on fashion, because it’s really not my field but this is such a cutting edge and avant garde experience that I wanted to add it in this guide. Besides, the selection is so playful that my kids enjoyed it too!
5th, Paris Jazz Corner
If you are into jazz music, this shop will make your wildest dreams come true. Situated next to a park, so easy to take turns digging.
6th, Le Bon Marché
One of my favourite department stores. It has an amazing selection of high-end brands, but also more affordable luxury. You can eat very well in one of the various restaurants, do some good grocery shopping, but most important there a floor dedicated to kids toys and fashion and it’s amazing!
Also, the restroom on the third floor of Le Bon Marché has a diaper-changing station, which is very convenient (it’s rare to find one in Paris).
In addition, there is a reservation-based kids’ room in the back of the children’s section, so parents can have some time for their own shopping.
6th, Maria de La Orden
I personally LOVE Maria de la Orden. She is Spanish, but her brand is based in Paris where she lives. You can see it’ not French because it’s so different from the ‘real’ French brands mentioned above, but I love it so much.
6th, The Red Wheelbarrow
This English bookstore is incredible. The selection is amazing and everyone working there has a heart for books and for their job. I love spending time here and since there is The Red Balloon next to it, we can take turns browsing while the kids enjoy themselves at the children selection.
6th, Tabio
Finding a pair of good socks can be tricky (right?!) so I am sharing my favourite socks store with you. I once bumped into it and found THE pair of red socks I was looking for.
18th, Puces de Clignancourt
I’ve spent hours here browsing for records to add to my soundtrack collection. This antique and vintage market sells just about anything you could be looking for. The sellers know their prices, but depending on what you’re after, it can definitely be worth it. An iconic item from an iconic place!
A little warning: it might not be the easiest spot with young kids. La REcyclerie—a wonderful sustainable hub just a 10-minute walk from the market—has great food and coffee. It’s super kid-friendly, so your partner / friend / grandparents might prefer to wait there with the kids. Just trying to be helpful!
9. Transport
I won’t be telling you a lot about Paris’ public transport. It’s not too difficult to navigate – compared to Tokyo – and it’s quite well organised. There are a few convenient subway lines, running from North to South (metro line 4) or East to West (Metro line 1) which we use sometimes. However, if you are travelling with a stroller you might want to avoid the subways. There are hardly any elevators and you’ll be carrying your stroller down narrow, crowded staircases. The bus would be your best option, although it can take time with Paris traffic.
Above all, I recommend you to walk. It’s the best way to experience Paris and if you bring a scooter for your kid, they will be fine too!
Navigo – a public transport pass
Getting around Paris is easiest with a Navigo card, which works on the metro, RER, buses, trams, and suburban trains.
For visitors, the Navigo Easy is the simplest option — you can buy it at any metro station and load it with single rides, day passes, or even airport transfers. (You can’t just add money to it — you load specific tickets or passes each time. I find that a bit annoying personally!)
If you’re staying longer, the Navigo Découverte (weekly or monthly) might be worth it and covers all zones, including trips to Versailles or Disneyland Paris.
You can top up at station machines or directly from your phone using the Île-de-France Mobilités app.
10. Travel Toys
An essential part of the trip and one I always prepare this part well! Read everything about our favourite travel toys per age here.